Check/Clean/Replace Air Cleaner Element
The air filter is made up of two parts, the air filter element itself and the foam precleaner which slips over it. Although the service interval chart in the LA175 Operator's Manual says that the air filter should be replaced every 50 hours, the specific instructions in the manual say that the air filter should be replaced "only if it is very dirty, damaged or the seal is cracked." Although there's certainly nothing wrong with replacing the filter element, since mine was not any of the things listed in the manual I went ahead and reused it, a judgment call on my part (erring on the side of not spending any money).
Before removing the air cleaner from the engine, I made sure that all dirt and debris was cleared away from the cover so no dirt fell into the air cleaner base when I took out the filter (where it could fall or get sucked into the engine). I next removed the foam precleaner from the air filter (being careful not to rip it). Given that the prefilter was not too dirty or damaged to the point where I needed to replace it, I washed it in warm soapy water to clean it (just make sure that it's is completely dry when you reinstall it so that no water gets into the engine).
Although the manual says that you should not attempt to clean the paper element by tapping it against another object, as long as I tap gently without causing any damage, that's what I do. The manual also says not to used pressurized air to clean the element, but again I gently used low pressure air from my compressor to blow from the inside out. Although I didn't strictly follow the John Deere manual, just thinking it through I could not see a reason not to do these things as long as the element was not overly dirty and I was careful. I know, I know, a rules violation, but this is a perfect example of why I do my own maintenance - I make the judgment call and if I'm wrong I have to live with the consequences; but as long as I'm careful, use common sense and think about what I'm doing while I'm doing it I have confidence that the job is done right (the last thing I want to do is to re-insert a damaged element and allow dirt to enter the engine during operation). Finally, before reinstalling the filters, I wipe out the filter housing with a cloth to get out any dust and debris.
Unfortunately, AMSOIL does not make an air filter for this application so when the time comes to replace the filter, I'll use a John Deere part.
Clean Engine Air Intake/Cooling Fins
This one's easy since I use my blower to blow off the engine after every use anyway. Grass or other debris tends to get stuck on the engine air intake so I take special care to make sure that is clean and that the engine gets plenty of air to avoid overheating.
Change Spark Plugs
Although the thought of changing a spark plug may seem a little daunting if you've never done it before, just pay attention to what you're doing and you'll be fine. For this job you will need a socket wrench with a 5/8" spark plug socket (spark plug sockets have a rubber insert that holds the plug snug so as not to break or crack the porcelain). I also recommend using a torque wrench since over tightening a spark plug could damage either the plug or the threads in the cylinder head (a very bad thing). Finally, while most spark plugs come pre-gapped from the manufacturer, a gapping tool is good to have on hand to make sure the gap between the spark plug's center electrode and the ground electrode are the right distance apart.
The John Deere spark plug, John Deere part number M78543, is actually a Champion spark plug, part number RC12YC, and it will obviously work fine in your tractor. But if you're looking for something better, AMSOIL has partnered with NGK, one of the world's leading spark plug manufacturers, to provide the finest spark plugs available on the market. NGK Standard plugs provide excellent service for small engine applications, including John Deere lawn tractors. NGK plugs provide better protection against fouling, greater ignitability and improved performance. The NGK part number is BK5RE (AMSOIL stock code NGK7938).
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| NGK7938 |
To change the plug, I first take compressed air (you can use a wet/dry vacuum as well) to blow away any dirt and debris around each plug before removing it. This helps prevent anything from falling into the cylinder when taking out the old plug. First remove the wire to the plug you will change (one on each side of the engine) and then use your socket wrench with spark plug socket to remove the plug (turn the wrench counter-clockwise). The spark plug should unscrew easily. If you encounter resistance, stop. Forcing the spark plug to turn could break the plug or damage the engine. It's better to visit a mechanic to remove a stubborn spark plug than to perform expensive cylinder head repairs.
Before installing the new plugs, make sure that the gap on the new plugs is set at .76mm (0.030 in). When inserting the new plugs make sure that they are inserted correctly into the hole and that they are easy to turn at first. Again, if they are hard to turn or you encounter resistance when first inserted, don't force them, remove them and start over. Although I didn't find it necessary, you could use anti-sieze compound on the threads before inserting (don't get it on the electrodes or it could ruin the plug). Once the spark plug is snug, attach your spark plug socket to your torque wrench to tighten the plug so that the plug's washer is compressed against the mounting surface. John Deere requires that the plugs be tightened to 20 N*m (15 lb-ft); don't over-tighten. When putting the wire boots back on the plugs, I spread a little dielectric compound in the boot with a Q-tip in order to help protect against corrosion and to make it a little easier to get the wire off in the future.
Replace Fuel Filter
According to the Operator's Manual, the fuel filter should be changed every 50 hours of operation. In order to avoid fuel gushing everywhere when you take off the old filter, it's best to do this job when the fuel in the tank is low (since there will be less pressure and therefore less gushing). Also, make sure you do this when the engine is cool since there is no way to avoid some fuel leaking from the gas line (heat and raw gas tend not to mix).
The fuel filter is located next to the oil filter. Put a drain pan under the filter to catch any fuel that may spill. Using a pair of pliers, slide the hose clamps away from the filter. A bit of advice: have the new filter ready to go since the gas is going to start running out when you disconnect the hose coming from the gas tank (the bottom one) and it doesn't stop. Even better, have a helper available to hold the bottom hose vertical once disconnected to minimize the amount of fuel that comes out. (Another bit of advice: if your wife holds the hose she will get gas on her hands and she will smell like gas for awhile - if this is a bad thing for her, please warn her beforehand in order to minimize the amount of trouble that you will be in). Connect the hoses to the new filter making absolutely sure that the arrow on the filter is pointed in the direction of the fuel flow (from the tank towards the engine). If the filter is installed upside down (with the arrow in the wrong direction), the engine will not get the correct amount of fuel and could be damaged.
Like the oil filter from my previous post, I had an extra fuel filter left over from my days at Lowe's which I used since I hate wasting parts (and money). So I did not use AMSOIL as my source for the fuel filter and guilt washed over me for a second time. AMSOIL offers both Donaldson and WIX fuel filters which can be used in this application: (Donaldson) P550094; (WIX) 33011).
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| WIX 33011 |
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| Donaldson P550094 |
Clean Battery Terminals
Not much to say here. Since I blow the mower off after each use, and since there has been no leakage from the terminals, this has not been an issue for me. If the terminals were corroded, I would clean them with a mixture of baking soda and water.
Check Air in Tires
For the same reasons that you keep your car tires properly inflated (fuel economy, wear, traction, etc.) the tires on your tractor should also be kept at the correct pressure. After sitting in the garage for about three months, the tires on the LA175 definitely needed air. Having a compressor makes this job much easier. Tires should be inflated to the pressure specified on the side of the tire (12 psi).
Cleaning the Engine and Tractor
Some might call me "overzealous" (or perhaps other adjectives) when it comes to making sure my tractor is clean, at least at the beginning of the mowing season (I don't know why but having the tractor at least somewhat clean just makes me feel better!). After changing the oil and the fuel filter, with the gas and oil dripping all over the place, and with the dust and material picked up over the course of the mowing season, I like to clean the engine first. AMSOIL Power Foam Engine Cleaner (AMSOIL Product Code APF) was originally recommended for cleaning interior engine parts (carburetors, intake valves, throttle plates, etc.), as well as a degreaser for cleaning exterior engine surface. It contains a powerful foaming agent and special high boiling solvents that penetrate rust and grease. It washes clean, leaving no residue to attract more dirt. AMSOIL recently introduced a new product, Heavy-Duty Degreaser (AMSOIL Product Code ADG) formulated with powerful and fast-acting solvents which attack petroleum-based grime on a molecular level to loosen its hold on metal, concrete, engines and other surfaces. Its active citrus formula makes cleaning easy and leaves a clean scent. Because I have several cans of Power Foam left in stock, I used the Power Foam to clean the engine (Power Foam also now has a new container).
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| AMSOIL Power Foam Engine Cleaner (old packaging) |
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| AMSOIL Power Foam Carburetor and Induction System Cleaner (new packaging) |
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| AMSOIL Heavy-Duty Degreaser |
I spray Power Foam on the greasy areas of the engine, let it sit for a few minutes and then wash it off with water, taking care not to spray water into the air intake or interior portions of the engine. Believe me, your engine will come out looking great!
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| Before Power Foam |
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| During Power Foam |
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| After Power Foam |
Thanks for visiting this post. I'll discuss some useful John Deere attachments that I use around the yard in upcoming posts.
Questions, comments and advice are always welcome!!
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